I sit on the shuttle enroute to Oslo airport with a perm a grin smile and the feeling of satisfaction and content as I have just finished one of my most amazing trips ever with Will Gadd. This trip was more then just a photo assignment for me, as I had some personal goals as well, and that was to climb a lot of ice, big, long, and hard Norwegian ice routes.
We visited the Eidfjord region of Norway, which is home to possibly the worlds best ice climbing. Ice climbing is pretty popular in Norway, but for some reason people have just started going to the Eidfjord region in the past few years. This area is relatively untapped with many first ascents waiting to be conquered. Eidfjord is home to many large water falls, which all of them seem to be within an hour or less walk from the car, with enough variety to occupy the novice to the expert climber. It would be the equivalent being a rock climber in the 60’s and going to Yosemite.
On our first day we drove around the area and were like kids in a candy store, everywhere we looked there were strips of ice lining the mountainsides. We looked across the fjord and there it was, a big and beautiful ultra classic waterfall. With no roads to that side of the fjord we found ourselves on a boat the following morning. This waterfall dominates the view from town and it was a first ascent. It would be like climbing the Bastille crack in Eldorado or the Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows.
Next were rumors of the tallest vertical waterfall in Norway. The next day we find ourselves at the base of a 300-meter vertical fall, which is incredibly beautiful and very intimidating! Knowing there is not enough time left in the day Will and Andres rally up about three pitches to check it out. Back at it the next day they get another first ascent, six pitches of mostly sustained, vertical water ice.
Two days later we find ourselves at the base of another waterfall, the biggest and most intimidating of them all. This was a two tier waterfall with the lower fall around 300 meters and the upper around 200 meters, both are dead vertical or even overhanging. With only four hours of light left it is obvious this wont get climbed today, but obviously Will wants to charge up this as high as he can to get a feel for the ice and the route. Knowing that tomorrow is going to be a huge day, Andreas wants to save his energy and asks me if I want to climb with Will. My answer was pretty simple, “F@%$ yeah I want to climb!”
An hour later we find ourselves at the second belay tucked back in a cave, looking up at a sea of icicles and a pillar, which connects the fall to the upper section. Will heads on up out of the cave and onto the pillar, he climbs about another 20 feet and then comes back to the belay. It was some of the sketchiest ice he has ever seen. It was a sea of crystal clear icicles and blocks that were vertical and overhanging far a good 20 meters. Trying to find a safer more sane way to get to the upper section of the waterfall, Will tries some mixed climbing on the side of the cave, which is very overhanging and would be a project by its self.
Back at the belay he gives the sketchy pillar another go. Onto the backside of the pillar he heads up out of sight. As I belay the rope slowly feeds it way through my belay device. More and more rope heads through my belay device and I realize he has climbed the sketchy pillar and that means only one thing, I have to go next! Eventually the rope gets tight and Will calls down on the radio, “That was one of the sketchiest, most difficult ice pitches I have ever lead! You are on belay.” “ Oh, watch your face, there are a ton of hanging daggers just waiting to fall.”
At this point I still have my camera with me, and with the news of how hard the climbing is, it was a pretty easy decision, my cameras journey has come to an end. Belay jacket and camera will stay behind! 70 meters later I finally get to Will, I had had given it everything I had, I could not even hold onto my ice axes I was so pumped. Climbing that pitch was the hardest thing I have ever climbed, rock or ice, I have no idea how Will lead that, and could never imagine leading a pitch of ice like that.
Another 70 meters later we find ourselves close to the top of the first waterfall, but still another pitch to the top. With the light fading fast it was time to come down, knowing that tomorrow was going to be a huge day for Will and Andreas. I had gotten my fill; I just climbed three pitches of a vertical waterfall.
The following day starts and finished with our headlamps, and in between these guys climbed both waterfalls. 500 meters of vertical ice, by far the biggest and best waterfall they have ever climbed. Plus I got the most amazing photos ever!
Our trip to Norway ended with three first ascents, a ton of climbing, and some great times with great friends. It pretty much was as good as it gets!
I would love to post some climbing photos, but Will is writing a story for a magazine so we will have to wait until it is printed.

This is the two tier water fall called Skrikjofossen ("freaky Fossen")